I splurged my final night in Austria and stayed in one of Vienna's grandest hotels. I felt like a Sultan. At breakfast there was this deranged buffet from which I gnarfed an unseemly amount of food. What to wash it down with? Ah! There were two fizzies, one was a Champagne you've heard of and which I probably shouldn't name (though it rhymes with hurts if you say it right) and Brundlmayer Sekt at its side. And there, boys 'n girls, I did prove in front of several witnesses that Willi's fizz is INDEED better than middling commercial Champagne. Last year I asked Willi how he felt about Michi Moosbrugger's splendid bubbly at Gobelsburg; he said he loved it, of course, but was himself seeking another kind of wine. I am actually looking for a certain neutrality, he said. Not lack of character, but a kind of discretion that will make the wine work well at the table. It should be elegant but not draw attention away from the food. Maybe it's the '05 vintage, and maybe it's the little bit of Gruner Veltliner Wil - Brundlmayer Sekt 2005 750ml -